Journal Jams : Vol 37
BJ: Beau! Great to see you man! What’s happening?
Beau: Hi Jeremy! Same, my man. Cruising! My wife and I just had a daughter on 4-3-21! She’s our first kid and her name is Ruby, and she’s healthy and happy, so I feel very lucky right now. So, to answer your question, mostly: Ruby haha. But, nah, I’ve been writing a bunch, too, and been busy with deadlines, while also rehabbing a shoulder I had to get surgery on in February. But that’s been healing fine, and I should be back surfing very soon. Stoked I got the first half of the winter on the North Shore, if anything.
BJ: Huge congrats to you and your wife man! What are you two most excited about?
Beau: Thanks Jeremy! We’re over the moon. Boy…hard to say what most?! We got this little girl for life LOL so lotta things. Nah, I think we’re very excited to travel with Ruby and show her the world as soon as we can, since traveling has always been such a huge part of me and my wife’s life together. That, and to just see her personality come out — what she’ll be into or get passionate about. We live super close to a great beach, so that’ll be epic doing beach days and pushing her into some Nalo shorebreak.
BJ: How’s Hawaii been treating you since the pandemic took off?
Beau: Ah, we’ve been very lucky (so far) here in Hawaii with the pandemic. Besides maybe some island in Indonesia (with good waves) I couldn’t think of a better place to be during a global pandemic. The weather is pretty much always good and we’ve had the lowest numbers of cases/deaths in all 50 states. Surfing was never prohibited. The closures and massive shutdowns weren’t as strict either like in the big Mainland cities. Most everyone was on the same page, and I suppose the strict quarantine rules last year helped with tourists not spreading the virus so wildly.
BJ: Have you been keeping busy writing?
Beau: Yes, I have. About half of my work is editorial, so — writing articles for various magazines and publications. The other half is more commercial work for brands and websites that need copy. I’ve recently been doing a few projects working on books published by Rizzoli out of New York which has been really fun. Also, my publisher here on Oahu, NMG Network, just did a new print run on my novel, In the Seat of a Stranger’s Car. The designer, Noa Emberson, switched up the colors on the edition and it came out MEAN! All these copies being sold by local booksellers and boutiques will be signed too.
BJ: So sick man, stoked to get my hands on it. Will we be seeing a sequel to your latest novel?
Beau: Mmmm, I’m not sure if I want to do a sequel to this story…unless I was offered a pleasant sum to do so LOL. But…I am noodling on another novel — very slowly — and I feel like the story is revealing itself to me more and more. That’s code for “I really need to be working on my next novel more,” Jeremy. LOL
BJ: Hey man, the fans want what the fans want, hahaha. So damn, how does it feel to not have surfed for the last two months?
Beau: Could be worse! While surfing was a part of my life, like, every single day, at least I could walk around after (unlike a knee or hip), and even type after shoulder surgery. I’ve also gone full-John John and gotten a WHOOP strap and hit the Peloton at my friend’s house across the street a few times a week to avoid full blown dad bod. Starting to turn a corner though and beginning to paddle around on a big board at the beach out front and I think I could be surfing by early summer. Having a daughter, though, has offset the “how’s the surf” anxious tick I have each hour, though.
BJ: Haha, anything to stay active these days! So Beau, what’s your writing process like?
Beau: Wake up. Coffee. Check Surfline. Another coffee. Surf or write for a couple hours (depending on what Surfline shows me). Ice coffee. Write for a few hours. Some variation of that.
BJ: Besides surfing and writing, what else can we catch you in the act of doing?
Beau: I like to bodysurf. Kayak out to some islands near my town. Before CoVid hit, we’d be traveling nearly a quarter of the year. For instance in 2019, I went to Java, Bali, Sumba, France, Switzerland, Romania, Italy and Belgium for me and my wife’s work. She’s a clothing designer/owner of de la Rosa Hawaii.
BJ: Whoa! That’s a ton of traveling. That’s amazing! Ruby has the world to look forward to. Well, I got one last one for you. Any upcoming plans or projects that you’re stoked for?
Beau: Yeah definitely. In September, a large format hardcover book called Big Wave Surfer: The Greatest Rides of Our Lives comes out that I had a pleasure of working a ton on as an editor with Kai Lenny and Don Vu. It’s an amazing book (available for presale already), published by Rizzoli International. Another project I’m working on that releases Feb ’22 is a really rad guidebook for more adventure-travel types called Wayward Journeys. It’s kind of like a travel guide through 16 different, really cool nations for those who want to surf or skate or climb or ride motorcycles through Vietnam or Cuba or Senegal, etc.Really psyched on how it’s turning out, and it’s also published by Rizzoli International.
Be sure to check out Beau's amazing first novel In the Seat of a Stranger's Car, while you're listening to this playlist he put together.